South African Museums

Over the past few weeks spent in South Africa, we visited many museums in both Cape Town and Johannesburg.  The first museum we visited was the Apartheid Museum in Johannesburg, which stood to memorialize the traumatic recent history of South Africa. Organized chronologically, the Apartheid Museum provided much necessary context for our learning on the rest of our trip.  Prior to entry into the museum, our tickets randomly branded us as “whites” and “non-whites,” and we briefly went through separate doors and followed different paths, a powerful means to introduce the contents of the museum, enough to set the mood and provide insight to the micro-injustices faced in everyday spaces under the apartheid rule, while refraining from making people relive the experience entirely. The inside of the museum, crafted intentionally to feel like a prison, consisted of a dark, windowless space of brick and metal fences to symbolize the oppression and lack of freedom that came with apartheid.  One of the most memorable parts of the museum was the room with the nooses hanging from the ceiling remembering the killing of jailed political dissenters which were put on record as “suicide by hanging.”  The location of this museum right next to the Gold Reef City Theme Park felt like a strange juxtaposition, but overall, this represented one of many informative experiences.
Entrance to Apartheid Museum

            The next museum we visited in Johannesburg was a former prison at Constitution Hill. This museum differed from the Apartheid Museum in that the space itself was the actual site of past injustices. We spent most of our time here learning about the Number Four prison cell, utilized for the non-white inmates which shows how racial distinctions carry over even in prison.  The racial power structures were further maintained in the amount and quality of food white prisoners received, as compared to the lesser and lower quality meals that coloured (mixed black and white) and black prisoners got. People like Mahatma Gandhi and Nelson Mandela spent time in the Constitution Hill prison.  I thought the most interesting part of Constitutional Hill is that right next to the old prison stands the new Constitutional Court, the highest court in South Africa built in 1995.  The reconstruction of this space at the end of apartheid recognizes the past injustices of the old court and represents a physical means of expressing a reform in attitudes toward justice.  The court utilizes bricks from the old prison in its structure as a reminder to learn from the past to build a better future.
Constitution Hill

            In Cape Town, we visited a colorful neighborhood called Bo-Kaap right in the center of the city which had its own Bo-Kaap Museum.  This neighborhood is home to a large population of people of the Cape Malay ethnic group.  The Cape Malay people are descendants of those brought by Europeans as workers from places like Indonesia, India, and Madagascar who generally practice Islam.  Each of the houses in Bo-Kaap is painted vibrantly, as a generational continuation of a means to claim ownership of their houses metaphorically after being granted ownership of their houses after apartheid when non-whites could not own these houses.  However, the Bo-Kaap Museum, located in one of these houses, maintains its original off-white color.  Smaller than the previous two museums, the Bo-Kaap Museum recognizes the history of transition from workers to residents of the community.
Bo-Kaap
Bo-Kaap Museum


            When in Cape Town, we visited the Robben Island Museum, another reformed prison.  We took a boat ride for a half hour to reach this actual island where Nelson Mandela spent 18 years in the maximum-security prison and the government built a house for the solitary confinement of Robert Sobukwe, a prominent anti-apartheid activist.  During apartheid, many political dissidents received prolonged sentences here, cut off from the participation in the country by water in addition to the constraints of being in a prison to begin with.
Entrance to Robben Island

            Lastly, we toured the District Six Museum near the center of Cape Town.  District Six, an area formerly populated by mostly black and coloured South Africans, was declared a white group area during apartheid, which prompted forced removals and demolitions for the transformation, justified by the necessity of “redemption” due to high disease rates and prevalence of crime such as gambling, sex work, and shebeening.  After District Six was declared a white group area, 60,000 people were displaced between 1968 and 1980.  To me, the museum felt like a memorial shrine, with remnants of things found in the rubble of District Six such as old furniture, toys, and photographs from people’s homes.  The space represented a combination of remembrance and history, with quilts and poems from District Six residents as well as maps and articles pasted on the walls.  This museum was the most powerful to me because it made tangible the way apartheid uprooted people from their lives and destroyed their homes and communities.  The museum structure was a former church meant to house a temporary installment, which has continued for years.  Not created with tourists in mind, the museum was not chronological and not commercialized like some of the others, but rather meant to be a space of healing for the victims of forced removals made by the victims to encapsulate their memories, tell their stories, and heal with others who have experienced similar trauma.
Inside of District Six Museum
*Note- These images were taken of a Google Image Search, not by me

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